Shopping Guide for Helix Piercing Jewellery
Helix piercing has so many options when you search online. There are multiple hoops, studs, tiny gems, clickers and flatbacks out there, and all look very good, so what do you want?
Sometimes piercing jewellery looks gorgeous in the photos, but when you order it online from a piercing jewellery store, they look different on you. That’s why we have prepared this guide to help you.
Here is the simple answer: a well-fitted flat-back stud is usually the easiest option for a new or sensitive piercing. Hoops can look great, but they are normally better once the piercing has fully healed.
The helix is the curved outer edge of the ear. A standard helix piercing passes through the cartilage along this outside rim, usually in the upper half of the ear.
You may also see product listings or search results using phrases such as piercing helix or helix ear. These normally refer to the same outer-cartilage placement.
Different types of helix piercings
Not every helix sits in the same place. Moving the piercing slightly higher or lower can completely change how your jewellery looks.
Upper helix
An upper helix piercing sits along the upper outside curve of the ear. This is the position most people picture when they hear the words helix piercing. It works well with tiny gem studs and plain metal balls.
High helix
A high helix piercing sits closer to the top of the ear than a standard upper helix. Small, simple jewellery usually works best because the space around the top curve can be limited.
Mid helix
A mid helix piercing is placed around the middle section of the outer ear. A tiny stone, star, flower or smooth hoop can work well here. If the piercing is close to the edge, ask your piercer to measure it before buying a fitted ring.
Low helix
A low helix piercing sits just above the lobe. It is a good option if you want the look of cartilage jewellery without placing it at the very top of the ear. It can be styled with a plain flat-back stud, a fitted hoop and a chain connected to a lobe piercing.
Double helix
A double helix piercing consists of two helix piercings placed close together. They can be worn with two matching pieces or with different jewellery that follows the same colour and style. Popular combinations include two matching stones and two plain hoops.
Triple helix
A triple helix piercing uses three closely placed piercings along the outer cartilage. Three identical earrings can work, but a graduated design often looks more balanced. For example, you could wear a 3 mm stone at the bottom, a 2.5 mm stone in the middle and a 2 mm stone at the top.
Vertical helix
A vertical helix passes vertically through the cartilage near the top of the ear. Depending on the placement and your anatomy, it may use a straight or curved barbell with one or both ends visible above the ear.
Floating helix
A floating helix is normally positioned so that the decorative part appears to hang or “float” below the upper fold of the ear. It is often styled with small dangling stones and curved decorative tops.
Should you choose a helix stud or hoop?
The right answer depends mainly on whether your piercing is new or healed. A flat-back labret is usually one of the easiest options for a fresh helix. The flat disc rests behind the ear and is often more comfortable than the butterfly back found on an ordinary earring.
A hoop moves more than a stud and may put pressure on a healing piercing. It can also get pulled sideways while you sleep or change your clothes. Some people can be pierced with a ring, but a professional piercer should decide whether it is suitable for your placement and ear shape.
What size helix jewellery should you buy?
Never choose the size only from a product photo. There are three main measurements to check.
Gauge
The gauge refers to the thickness of the post or ring. Common helix sizes include:
- 16G — 1.2 mm
- 18G — 1.0 mm
Your piercing may be different, so check what size your piercer used. Do not force thicker jewellery into the hole.
Post length
The post length is the wearable section of a labret. Fresh piercings usually need extra room for swelling. Once the swelling has reduced, a piercer may replace the longer post with a shorter one. This is known as downsizing.
Common post lengths include 6 mm, 7 mm and 8 mm, but there is no one-size-fits-all option.
Hoop diameter
The diameter is the distance across the inside of a hoop. Common helix ring diameters include:
- 6 mm
- 8 mm
- 10 mm
The correct diameter depends on:
- The position of the piercing
- The thickness of your cartilage
- The angle of the piercing
- Whether you want a fitted or loose look
- Whether the ring includes stones or a charm
An 8 mm hoop may fit one person perfectly and be far too tight on another. Have your piercing measured if you are unsure.
How long does a helix piercing take to heal?
One of the most common questions is: how long does a helix piercing take to heal?
A helix can take six months or longer to heal fully. For some people, it may take closer to a year before it feels completely settled. Your helix healing time may be longer if you:
- Sleep on the piercing
- Keep touching or twisting it
- Catch it while brushing your hair
- Wear jewellery that is too tight
- Leave an excessively long post in place
- Change the jewellery too early
- Use harsh cleaning products
- Heal several cartilage piercings at once
Healing does not always happen smoothly. Your ear may feel fine for several weeks and then become sore after you sleep on it or catch it on a towel.
Helix jewellery shopping checklist
Before ordering, ask yourself:
-
Is my piercing fully healed?
If not, stay with jewellery chosen or approved by your piercer. -
What gauge do I currently wear?
Confirm whether it is 16G, 18G or another size. -
What post length do I need?
Do not guess from the appearance of the jewellery. -
What hoop diameter fits my placement?
A ring should not pull or press against the edge of your ear. -
Is the material clearly stated?
Avoid listings that only say “metal” or “hypoallergenic alloy.” -
Is the back comfortable?
Flat-back labrets are often more comfortable than butterfly backs in cartilage. -
Will the design catch on my hair?
Pointed shapes, chains and large stones require more care. -
Is the attachment compatible?
Check the threading or threadless pin size. -
Is it a complete piece?
Some listings include only the decorative top and not the labret post. -
Can the item be returned?
Many shops cannot accept body jewellery that has been opened or tried on due to hygiene rules.